“We really wanted to build something for this community,” co-founder Ajay Relan says of Somerville in Los Angeles, a relatively new, contemporary American restaurant in the historic View Park-Windsor Hills neighborhood that pays homage to the mid-century jazz era of South Central LA.
Relan and his business partner Yonnie Hagos both grew up nearby. The duo opened their mission-driven coffee shop Hilltop Coffee + Kitchen in South LA in 2018 and started envisioning the concept for Somerville in December 2020, later also bringing on actress Issa Rae as a partner.
They started digging into the roots of South Central LA in the 1920s and discovered that the Black-owned Hotel Somerville would allow Black jazz musicians—who weren’t allowed at venues in Hollywood and Beverly Hills at the time—to play. For Black History Month, we’re taking a closer look at how the new restaurant pays tribute to the role this vibrant neighborhood played as a cultural and political epicenter for the Black community in Los Angeles.
“It was the West Coast version of the Harlem Renaissance,” Relan says. “We were so inspired, especially having grown up here, by the acumen, the excellence, and the intention behind this hotel.”
Of all that Somerville brings to its neighborhood, Relan and Hagos are perhaps proudest of the way the community has embraced it. “Everyone in this neighborhood got used to driving 30 to 40 minutes to have a great meal,” Relan says. “Somerville exists in an area that has been overlooked and this level of dining can rival any restaurant in the city.”
Read on for everything to know about Somerville in Los Angeles, and make a booking on OpenTable.
The vibes
After securing the space for the restaurant, Relan and Hagos enlisted John Sofio of Built, Inc. to design a restaurant that leans on rich mahogany tones, soft leather, and a central baby grand piano. “It’s a toast to the past and present,” Relan says. “Everything from the fabric that we chose to the banquettes, from the lighting to the acoustics, leans into mid-century LA.” Music is the focal point of the restaurant: Somerville’s baby grand sees a lot of action from local musicians, with at least three live musicians on the stage on any given night. “We want to showcase that jazz as a medium has really taken shape and made a comeback,” Relan says.
What to eat
The duo brought in chef Geter Atienza to create a contemporary American menu that highlights local produce in several large and small plates. That means dishes like Parker House rolls with truffle butter, fried chicken sliders with a dollop of caviar, duck confit with sour cherry-star anise jus, and collard green lasagna with bechamel and sun-dried tomatoes. “The menu is an ode to the past and everything on the menu has to be craveable,” Atienza says.
What to drink
Cocktails are the stars of the drinks menu and nod to music legends as well. Think modern takes on classics like A Love Supreme with vodka, Midori, and Cointreau that’s a nod to the John Coltrane album of the same name; and the Trouble Man featuring rum, Campari, and sweet vermouth that’s named after Marvin Gaye’s hit ‘70s song and album. An extensive selection of wine rounds out the drinks menu.
When to go
Somerville is open Wednesday to Sunday from 6 pm to 11 pm.
Karen Palmer is a pizza- and pasta-obsessed food writer based in Los Angeles. She is the former editorial director of Tasting Table, and her work has appeared in Eater, Food & Wine, Travel + Leisure, and many other publications. Follow her on Instagram at @karenlpalmer.
