In a town that’s known for infusing California ingredients with French cooking techniques, there’s shockingly little classic French fare in Los Angeles (you know, the type you’d get in a Parisian bistro).
That’s where Ludo Lefebvre—of Trois Mec fame—comes in. The Burgundy-born chef has been making waves with his beloved Hollywood bistro Petit Trois since its 2014 debut. It’s where Angelenos keep going back for traditional dishes like steak frites and escargot alongside a banger soundtrack of French hip-hop. And the restaurant racked up tons of critical acclaim, too—a spot on Jonathan Gold’s coveted LA Times 101 best restaurants list, a James Beard nomination for best new restaurant, and a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand.
In 2018, driven by the fact that he lives in the Valley, Lefebvre opened a much larger second location in Sherman Oaks. Petit Trois Le Valley has significantly expanded his reach in the city he’s called home for more than 20 years.
And Lefebvre doesn’t plan to slow down any time soon. He’s opening a modern French bakery right next door to the Valley location next year. “It will have the best croissant in town, made with French butter,” he says, adding that he’s even toying with the idea of an escargot croissant for lunch.
In the meantime, Petit Trois still does some of the best steak tartare and pared-down omelets in town—not to mention one of LA’s most iconic burgers, the bordelaise-doused Big Mec. For our latest Insider, we chatted with Lefebvre about all things Petit Trois on the eve of its tenth anniversary.
And when you’re done, book a reservation at either Ludo Lefebvre’s Petit Trois or Petit Trois Le Valley on OpenTable.
What do you think Petit Trois’s X factor is?
Ludo Lefebvre: It’s very, very French. There aren’t many French restaurants in LA with a French chef. It’s special especially to people from France who are missing food from their country.
What’s the one dish you’ll never remove from the menu?
The escargots. I’m from Burgundy, so it’s a dish that’s really close to me. We sell a lot of them. Sometimes I’ll go to a table and see a five-year-old kid eating escargots, which is cool. My kids won’t eat them.
What’s the underdog of the menu?
People often miss out on the leeks ‘fondant’, which is on the menu year-round. It’s very French, but I make it with a twist. I use yellow wine, which is nutty and creamy and works so well with mustard, hazelnuts, and eggs in the dish. When people do have it, they’ll say it’s the best thing they ate. In America, leeks aren’t very exciting, but the dish surprises a lot of guests.
What is the hidden gem on the wine list or among cocktails/non-alcoholic drinks?
I’m proud of the fact that we have our own Petit Trois Chablis by the glass on the wine list. We worked closely with a winemaker in Chablis to develop it. And we have an amazing gentleman, Shawn Lickliter, coming to work with us to elevate and put some new energy into our cocktail program. He was at République for many years. He’s going to create some food and cocktail pairings using French spirits, as well as some nonalcoholic pairings. I don’t drink, so I’m very excited about that.
Who’s your longest regular?
The actor Jerry O’Connell and his wife Rebecca Romijn have been here something like 170 times. They’re so nice and just come to have fun and eat. I wish all of our guests could be like them.
Who’s your longest-serving staff member?
There’s a dishwasher and prep cook named Loida Tzic and a bartender, Ryan Dominguez, who opened the restaurant with me. We’ve gone through a lot together. I was very sick a year ago, and Loida was very worried about me, which touched my heart. Ryan is just a happy, friendly guy who loves to please people.
What’s the most memorable request you’ve received from a customer?
A guest once asked me to make a chartreuse. It’s an old-school vegetable cake created by Marie-Antoine Carême in the 1800s that incorporates cabbage, carrot, and chicories cooked within a dome mold. It’s really beautiful. Making it is like putting together the pieces of a puzzle; it takes several days.
What’s the best seat in the house (at both locations)?
At both locations, it’s the chef’s counter. At the original location, we converted what used to be Trois Mec [Lefebvre’s French tasting-menu spot that closed in 2020] into a dining room with a counter. It’s important for me that guests see the kitchen and see how we cook and what ingredients we use. And they can interact with the chefs. When I was younger, my attitude used to be ‘don’t bother me, I’m cooking,’ but now I love the interaction with the guests.
What’s been the biggest change at the restaurant since the opening?
The most important one is the patio we’re about to open at the original location. We’re in California and people love to eat outside. It will be one of the best patios in town. In the Valley, we recently redid our private room, everything from the lighting to the curtains to the leather on the seats.
What’s your favorite award you’ve won?
I’m very proud of the Bib Gourmand from MICHELIN (in 2019), but also that I was knighted by the French government. About a month ago, I was in Paris for an estate dinner with President Macron and President Biden. I’m proud to represent my country and my culture in America.
Karen Palmer is a pizza- and pasta-obsessed food writer based in Los Angeles. She is the former editorial director of Tasting Table, and her work has appeared in Eater, Food & Wine, Travel + Leisure, and many other publications. Follow her on Instagram at @karenlpalmer.
