Ever since it opened in a sweeping, indoor-outdoor space in the Arts District in 2018, superstar chef David Chang’s Majordōmo in Los Angeles has been a blockbuster hit. Often full of big groups digging into noodle dishes and giant platters of short ribs from the eclectic, shareable Asian menu, the restaurant has landed on The Los Angeles Times’s 101 Best Restaurants list every year since it opened—and has evolved along the way.
“From a culinary standpoint, you see this thumbprint of all the people who have made a mark in the kitchen, which is not dissimilar to LA itself,” general manager Jared Hill says. “There’s a lot more to discover than what first meets the eye.”
We recently caught up with Hill and executive chef Tim Mangun to hear what makes this restaurant within the Momofuku restaurant universe so unique.
Read on to learn about the backbone of the menu, the hidden gem on the wine list, and more at Majordōmo in Los Angeles, and book your seat on OpenTable.
What do you think Majordōmo’s X factor is?
Jared Hill: “Majordōmo is Dave’s celebration of LA. It’s his homage to the city and its diversity.”
Tim Mangun: “The menu diversity as well as the diversity of the kitchen and the back of house really speaks to the collective community we’re in.”
What’s the one dish you’ll never remove from the menu?
Mangun: “We actually have a few staples. The backbone of our menu is the large-format smoked whole short ribs. David Chang wanted to open with this as the focus. The marinade is based off of his mother’s recipe, but we’ve tweaked it to feed up to six people. It’s carved tableside and served ssam-style. The mushroom crispy rice, which made its first menu appearance in 2022, has also become one of the staples.”
What’s the underdog of the menu?
Hill: “I love starting with fresh seafood. I avoided our tuna carpaccio at first because there have been so many other disappointing examples at other restaurants. But ours is a real standout. It’s a beautiful, simple presentation, with avocado, sesame, and yuzu. The seasoning really sets up the rest of the meal.”
Mangun: “Our grilled pork chop is one of the least ordered large-format items. We’re able to procure really high-quality pork chops from Klingeman Farms that are absolutely amazing. We cook them to perfection and serve them with a lao sauce, which has Thai chiles, tamarind, gochujang, Asian pear, and a ton of fish sauce. It often becomes diners’ new favorite when they try it. On the dessert side, our panna cotta is really special. It’s not a traditional version. We form it with shaved granita. It’s clean, refreshing, and exactly what I want after a big meal.”
What is the hidden gem on the wine list/cocktail list?
Hill: “We have exciting stuff on both fronts. On the wine list, we showcase small-scale producers who care about farming. We focus on producers in California, because we believe there’s a great conversation to be had outside the Napa Valley. Our bar lead is really creative and intentional. I love the after-dinner espresso martini, the After Hours. It’s a split base of vodka and coffee whiskey, which is shaken and served with a bit of Cynar in it for a more savory finish.”
What’s your favorite product at the restaurant for people to try at home?
Mangun: “We use quite a few of Momofuku’s products, like the savory salt and chili crunch, in our cooking. My advice for any cook or any aspiring home chef to elevate their cooking game is to experiment with koji. It’s a grain used to aid fermentation of soy sauce and miso, and also adds depth and savoriness to marinades and sauces. Most Asian groceries should have it available.”
Who’s your longest regular?
Hill: “We had to dig through our reservations, but we’ve had guests who have cracked more than 100 visits. One of our regulars, Dot, and her now-husband bring their daughter in all the time. It’s really heartwarming.
Mangun: “We have another regular, James, who’s been coming here since day one, literally our opening day. He shows up to every collaboration and special event.”
Who’s your longest serving staff member?
Mangun: “Jude, who is now our corporate chef, started on day one like me and moved up the ladder in the back of house. Chris Duong also started on day one and learned all the stations before becoming a sous chef. James McIntosh started as a dishwasher a few months into the restaurant’s opening and is now a server’s assistant.”
What’s the most memorable request you’ve received from a customer?
Hill: “This past December, a longtime guest whose wife was celebrating five years being cancer-free asked us to make them something special. So we created a five-course tasting menu for them. It was really beautiful to be part of their celebration.”
What’s the best seat in the house?
Hill: “I think our kitchen counter is the best place to enjoy Majordōmo. You get to see the vibrancy and intensity in the kitchen, which is large and staffed with a big team. The diners we have at the kitchen counter tend to be intrigued and enthusiastic. The food can be as exciting as the catch-up or date.”
Mangun: “In addition to the chef’s counter, I would also recommend the end of the bar because you’re right at the point where all of the food goes out to the restaurant. I also like watching the bartenders doing their thing. Table 32 is also right at that point where the food comes out; that might be the best seat in the house.”
When is the best time to find a reservation?
Hill: “I love the versatility of the restaurant. A couple can make it an intimate night out, or you can get 10 or 11 of your friends together. We tend to let the tables linger a little longer midweek. I also think it’s fun for large groups to come in early and watch as the restaurant evolves around you.”
Mangun: “Friday and Saturday nights can get a little nutso. During the week, we’re able to really hone in on service and put our best foot forward. Tuesday and Wednesday nights might be my favorites for the calmer and more chill atmosphere.”
What’s been the biggest change at the restaurant since the opening?
Mangun: “The pandemic in 2020 really showed us a lot, in terms of both staffing and the menu. Our menu used to be much larger, but we’ve really honed it in. From a guest perspective, it’s now much more palatable and easier to handle. Plus, there’s still enough there that you can’t experience everything in one visit, but maybe in two to three visits you could try the entire menu.”
What’s your favorite award you’ve won?
Mangun: “When we first opened, we were finalists for the James Beard Best New Restaurant. I still have the certificate. Opening up a restaurant is one of the most difficult things a human can do, so the fact that James Beard recognized us was one of the highlights of my kitchen career. Plus every year we’ve been open, we’ve been on The Los Angeles Times 101 Best Restaurants list. To me, it’s like, okay, there are something like 26,000 restaurants in LA, and we’re in the 101 best. Our culinary community is so diverse and excellent, so I’m proud to be on that list every year.”
Karen Palmer is a pizza- and pasta-obsessed food writer based in Los Angeles. She is the former editorial director of Tasting Table, and her work has appeared in Eater, Food & Wine, Travel + Leisure, and many other publications. Follow her on Instagram at @karenlpalmer.
