When GupShup opened in New York City’s Gramercy in 2018, few restaurants were showcasing its casual, New American-flair with Indian cooking. Indian food—both this whimsical style and a deeper exploration of regional fare—has exploded on the national scene since.
“Indian restaurants are finally starting to get their share of importance,” says GupShup owner Jimmy Rizvi, who is proud to have played a part in that movement. “When other Indian restaurants are doing well, it helps everybody.”
An experimental, ever-changing menu with dishes like ramen in South Indian-style tomato rasam broth has helped GupShup remain one of the hippest Indian spots in the city and kept regulars like Jimmy Fallon returning for more.
With that, we welcome you to The Insider, the first in a brand-new series looking at what makes the best restaurants tick, and how you can get in on the action. Read on for why GupShup remains a favorite, and see you next time for an inside look into another local hit.
What do you think Gupshup’s X factor is?
Jimmy Rizvi: New York City is a diverse and multicultural hub, and GupShup authentically captures the essence of Indian culture’s cuisine and ambiance that often resonate well with New Yorkers and tourists alike. Beyond just food, Gupshup offers a holistic experience through music, decor, and events that celebrate Indian culture and traditions.
What’s the one dish you’ll never remove from the menu?
Personally, I love a good butter chicken. We make it the best, not just in New York, but in all of North America. If you think about it, butter chicken is one of the best-selling dishes in India and around the world. It needs to have the right amount of sweetness, tanginess, and charredness on the chicken pieces. We end up selling thousands of gallons a year.
What’s the underdog of the menu?
The nihari and the haleem. I would say nihari is like an ossobuco and haleem is similar to khao soi. The salmon tikka is also phenomenal. Ours is made in a charcoal oven, and I’ve never had salmon cooked that soft and tender.
What’s your favorite product at the restaurant for people to try at home?
We are hardcore believers in desi ghee [clarified butter made from cow’s milk] and we can’t live without [beloved Indian brand] Amul ghee, butter, and cheese. We grew up with it and it brings a lot of nostalgia. The same is true of the Rooh Afza [a popular South Asian rose syrup used in drinks] and the Parle-G biscuits [a tea-time dipping favorite] we serve at the restaurant.
Who’s your longest regular?
Jimmy Fallon is definitely one of them. It’s great that he always likes to order something new that he hasn’t tried. He loves seafood. He tried haleem one time (a South Asian lentil and meat dish), lamb shank nihari another time (a slow-cooked stew), and the onion chili cheese kulcha (a quesadilla-like stuffed bread) is one of his favorites.
Who is your longest-serving staff member?
Samir Bhatt, who is a captain right now at GupShup, would have to be it for the front of the house. His first-ever bartending gig was for 50 Cent, and he’s steadily risen through the ranks at GupShup. He started as a host, became a maitre’d, and is now the captain. In between, he’s come back from working at Eleven Madison Park and Le Pavillon.
What’s the most memorable request you’ve received from a customer?
A couple came into GupShup on their first date and they had such a good time they requested our manager to keep the restaurant open so they could gupshup (the word gupshup means chit chat in Hindi) a little longer. That night, we closed at 3 am. Our usual closing time is 11 pm. That same couple’s story was later featured on Netflix’s Longest Third Date.
What’s the best seat in the house?
It depends on what you’re in the mood for. If you are on a date, I would seat you on the diagonal corner of the restaurant that gives you a 180-degree view of the bar and the different sections of the restaurant. The second level right below the tiger mural is where you’d want to have a big party with lots of food and drinks.
When is the best time to find a reservation?
We are not Carbone or something, but if you’re a group of two to four people, a couple of weeks in advance is probably your best bet, especially if you want to dine on Thursday, Friday, or Saturday. For a bigger group, three to four weeks in advance is probably best. If you’re looking for a last-minute reservation, Tuesdays sometimes tend to be a little slower. Between 5 pm to 6 pm and after 9 pm can be good, too.
What’s been the biggest change at the restaurant since the opening?
The perception that the guest is always right is evolving. I think people are a lot more understanding now. We definitely still try our best to accommodate every guest, but we tell the guest that we can’t accommodate changes at the last minute. We are able to say no if we can’t do it.
What’s your favorite award you’ve won?
More than any recognition, when people, especially Indians and South Asians who know about this food, say they’ve only eaten food like this in Delhi, it makes you want to do even better.
—Tanay Warerkar is OpenTable’s New York writer and a content marketing manager at OpenTable.
