A year since Ethel’s Fancy opened with its chill dinner party vibes in downtown Palo Alto, Californians just can’t seem to get enough. Diners, including Goop maven Gwyneth Paltrow, have fallen hard for the restaurant’s seasonal Californian menu with Hawaiian and Japanese touches.
That’s because the restaurant is an extension of chef Scott Nishiyama’s popular living room pop-ups, and he’s stayed true to its spirit of serving the freshest fish and vegetables. Plus, the menu has evolved since the opening, which is all the more reason to head on over—or return—to this Silicon Valley gem.
Read on for what to order right now at Ethel’s Fancy.
1. Fall in a coupe
Kick the night off with the brand-new Out of the Woods bourbon drink that screams fall in a cocktail coupe. There’s a hint of sweetness from fig balsamic syrup, a touch of spice from cinnamon, and a generous dusting of chocolate on top in the shape of a leaf—it doesn’t get more fall-drink-vibes than this.
2. Milk bread like you wouldn’t expect
There’s a reason this milk bread’s been on the menu since day one. Nishiyama’s version doesn’t involve the fluffy Japanese breads that come to mind; he cooks his breads on a grill to create round, smoke-kissed flatbreads. Rip and dip them into velvety puréed sweet potato and nutty brown butter.
3. A kid snack goes adult
The sesame seed-studded rice cracker to scoop up this tuna tartare is a recipe Nishiyama stole from his mom, one she served as a snack to kids. Those crackers now serve as the perfect vehicle for the bright bluefin tuna that’s dressed in a sweet Jimmy Nardello peppers dressing.
4. Caramely, flaky fish with an umami punch
Nishiyama takes wild halibut and tricks it out with yuzu kosho, the funky fermented paste that gets a kick from chiles and zip from citrus zest. Whisked into a glaze and brushed over the fish, it bubbles and caramelizes on top and melts down into the fish, infusing umami flavor all the way through.
5. Bacon-like candied hunks of pork belly
The crispy pork belly has also never left the menu due to popular demand. Think of it like big, candied hunks of bacon with a rich miso caramel glaze. Nishiyama places them on a creamy spoonful of burrata and tops the pork with crunchy vegetables like baby Tokyo turnips and pink watermelon radishes to cut the fat.
6. A soft-serve reminder of the summer
Nishiyama is keeping warmer weather alive at Ethel’s Fancy with this bright lemon verbena soft serve that came on to the menu this summer. This classic, creamy swirl replaced Nishiyama’s longtime soft serve favorite almond cookie, but he’s happily embraced the new lemony creation that’s showered with a gingery melon granita and drizzled with roasted peach purée.
Becky Duffett is a food writer living and eating in San Francisco. Follow her on Instagram at @beckyduffett.
