When it comes to his culinary career, star Chicago chef Lamar Moore has done a little bit of everything. He was the Chicago Bears sous chef, the executive chef at the glam Bugsy and Meyer’s Steakhouse in Las Vegas (a gig he earned after winning the Food Network’s Vegas Chef Prizefight), and most recently led the kitchen at the beloved Bronzeville Winery. At ETC., his new Loop restaurant, he finds inspiration closer to home.
He’s tapping into the food he grew up on from his Mississippi-born grandmother in a deeply personal restaurant that does an elevated take on Southern food. “There’s a misconception that everything we eat is fried or heavy,” Moore says. “I want to show the whole range of what Southern food means to me.”
The restaurant’s name stands for “experience, taste, cocktails,” and Moore hopes to create a next-level destination in an area that’s known more for its historic skyscrapers than its sit-down restaurants “When you think of ETC., it’s constantly going and doesn’t stop,” Moore says.
Read on for what to expect at ETC., and make a booking on OpenTable.
What to eat
The restaurant has a concise menu of shareable small and large plates, all with plenty of Southern flair. “We want to make food that gives you a warm hug,” Moore says.
Moore’s beef tartare has Alabama white barbecue sauce in it for a touch of sweetness and crispy chicken cracklings sub in for traditional toasted bread on the side. Southern picnic food staple deviled eggs are also on the menu and Moore tops them with a generous dollop of caviar. And smoked Mississippi catfish is part of a dip that gets a touch of heat from Cajun seasoning.
From those smaller plates, move on to larger dishes that show off Moore’s French culinary training, including braised oxtails with heirloom purple grits and steak au poivre. Be sure to order the housemade biscuits and pimento cheese for the table, and don’t leave without getting the banana pudding—he makes a smoked version of the dessert he regularly ate growing up.
What to drink
Restaurant GM Max Shapiro leaned on his chef training and worked closely with the kitchen to create the cocktail menu, which is divided into seasonal drinks and house classics.
Go for the Corn-A-Copia, which uses local corn from the cobb salad to create a caramel-like infusion that’s paired with mezcal, sake, and lime. Maple syrup, a favorite ingredient of Moore’s, can be found in the Sweater Vest Old Fashioned. There’s also a small but mighty global wine list with selections by the glass, carafe, and bottle.
Where to sit
Restaurant partner Charles Martin helped with the interiors of the cozy spot that has a floral wall mural, rust-colored chairs, and soft lighting throughout. Head to the 12-seat marble bar for a more intimate evening. The nearby lounge area with high tops is ideal for a post-work happy hour hang.
While Moore is no stranger to the Chicago dining scene, ETC. marks his first time as an owner. “I’ve always been taught that if you have skin in the game, it makes you appreciate it even more,” he says. “It’s a badge of honor.”
Lisa Shames is a writer focused on travel and food culture in Chicago, IL. She has covered Chicago’s restaurant scene for publications including CS, Chicago Tribune, and Time Out and is the U.S. contributor for Sogoodmag.
